PC Building Simulator – 簡単 20000+ 3D Marks for less than $5000

I’ve seen guides showing how to get the Blow ’em away achievement using two RTX 2080 Ti graphics cards in SLI(available Level 29) and an AMD Ryzen Threadripper CPU(First available Level 22) but I’ve never seen anyone do it with two water-cooled

Parts List

Here are basically the minimal parts you will need to hit 20,000+ 3D Marks for under $5000(including shipping) before you hit Level 22 in career mode. 技術的には, you could do it even cheaper if you skimp on the storage and motherboard a bit(that’s if you really want or need to use same day shipping from both Bits&PCs and the Custom Water Cooling Shop). それで, the parts:

Bits&PCs(Shop app on your office PC)

• CPU i9 9900K $730
• HSF ARCTIC Alpine 12 受け身 $37
• AIO n/a
• Mobo ASRock Z390 Phantom Gaming 4 $140
• RAMs 2X CORSAIR Dominator Platinum 4GB 4000 $160
• SSDs GIGABYTE SSD 240GB $40
• HDDs Seagate 1TB $60
• PSU EVGA SuperNOVA 1050 GS $180
• Case CORSAIR Obsidian Series 1000D $500

Custom Water Cooling Shop(rads can be Alphacool if you like, but only EK pumps available so far)

• 2X EKWB 240mm Rad $460
• 2x EKWB 140mm Rad $300
• 1x EKWB 120mm Rad $130
• 1x EKWB 100 ポンプ $220
• 2X NVIDIA GTX 1080 Ti EKWB Plexi $1910(Plexi since I like the flowing water. Get what you like)

合計 $4997($4867 + $130 Shipping. That’s next day at Bits&PCs and same day for GPUs etc)

また, if you want to knock off another $70 to get same-day shipping from Bits&PCs too, you can ditch the HDD($60), downgrade the SSD($5), and get the ASRock Z390 Pro 4(save another $5).

You can probably order most of your parts from Bits&PCs the next day to save some money(especially when combined with parts for customer jobs) but you definitely want the same day for water-cooled stuff(the next day) so you can make a save before purchase and reload the save if the GPUs you get have trouble hitting high enough frequencies, use too much power, generate too much heat, or some combination of those things. If you don’t intend to keep the build as your office PC, you can just do same-day shipping for Bits&PCs as well as the water cooling shop, make a save before you order parts, then reload the save after you get the achievement.

GTX 1080 Ti graphics cards in SLI(available Level 21) and an Intel Core i9 9900K CPU(available before Level 21). The aim of this guide is to show players of PC Building Simulator how to put together an office PC for less than $5000(including shipping) to get this achievement ASAP in Career mode.

System Setup

Once you have the parts for your build, you can start putting them together.

Some parts just go where they go, but I would like to make suggestions for most of them.

For your 240mm rads, put one where the rear exhaust fans go and the other opposite(by glass).

For your 140mm rads, put them at opposite ends of the top(this may be the only choice).

For the pump, you will want to install it on top of the hard drive cage(might be only choice, idk).

For the 120mm rad, put it under the 240mm rad in front by the glass(in close proximity to pump).

With the case turned around, put the SSD in the top left slot(I think that shows the label best).

I suggest placing the hard drive(if you use one) in the center HDD slot so it has breathing room.

If you were using a CPU block, I would suggest placing the ram in the slots farthest from the CPU.

しかし, since this build is using a small passive cooler, you can put the ram wherever you want.

通常, when I do cables, I start before installing the graphics card(s) but stop before doing the storage drive power connectors. Then I install the graphics card(s) and power connector(s) 該当する場合, and finish off with the storage drive connectors. That way I make sure the graphics requirements are met without a storage drive hogging a connection it doesn’t really need.

Of course the pump will use the CPU fan header to connect to the motherboard. The fan controller on the Obsidian 1000D will connect to a case fan header on the motherboard. Then your rads will connect to that. There are plenty of connectors on the fan controller, but I suggest starting with the 240mm rad in back, then the 140mm above to that, then the other 140mm to that. Connect the front 240mm rad to the fan hub also, then connect the 120mm rad below to that. Rads now ready.

Before installing your 1080 Ti graphics cards, you will want to grab a spare air cooled Radeon graphics card from your inventory and slot it in. You do have at least one in your inventory, 右?

いいえ? Then you’ll need to get one. I think you can use the cheapest one available but I’m not sure. Pretty sure I’ve only ever used an MSI RX 470 GAMING 8GB, and those run at least $295 新しい.

Once your system is built(save water cooled GPUs, pipes and coolant), fire it up and enter the bios. Go to the Ram Overclocking section, turn up the voltage to 1.65(安全であるために) and the ram speed to 4300. Then select the SSD as a boot drive(if it isn’t already), apply changes and restart.

Install the OS and at least these apps:3D Mark, OCCT, and GPU Tuner. System Info is optional.

Run the GPU Tuner app and crank the voltage to 150%. Hit apply, power down and remove GPU.

Overclocking and Testing

This is the point where you actually install your graphics cards(and cables for them), パイプ, and coolant. If the initial set of graphics cards you receive aren’t quite up to the task, you will be reloading a save and this will be part of what you end up doing again.

Once everything is installed, fire up the system. Launch both OCCT and GPU Tuner, positioning them onscreen so you can easily see both simultaneously.

Not sure why, but I kinda like to see how far the GPU can go first. Maybe underclock the VRam slightly from 1376 に 1375 just to give a bit more headroom to the GPU. I try 2000 初め, hit apply, and run OCCT(set to infinite) についてのために 10 秒(enough for GPU temps to stabilize) then turn it off. I may then pop it up to 2100 and do the same thing. その後, I start doing 25 MHz increments(2125, 2150, 2175, 等) but just look how idle wattage and temps change bit by bit(sometimes no change in wattage or discernible change in temp, 時々 1 watt higher, 時々 2, 3, 4 以上). If you get a more radical change in wattage(more than a few watts), stop and run OCCT for a few seconds to determine the new higher temp at which the GPUs will stabilize. Max temp for GPUs is around 95.5C. Your idle draw(on a 1050w PSU) shouldn’t be much more than about 280w max(more like 292w if you go with the SilverStone ST1100-Ti instead of the EVGA SuperNOVA 1050 GS). If testing goes over max temp and blue screens or your idle wattage goes too high, back things off 25MHz and that will be your max GPU core clock. Now set it back to default 1582(or a little lower like 1575).

今, the VRam. Method is similar to GPU core overclocking. この場合 1400, 1500, 1600 and even 1700 should probably be okay to start testing(hit apply, then use OCCT to test for stable load temps and overall stability). 後 1700 we may want to switch to 25MHz increments, carefully watching the wattage. If we set VRam clock too high and hit apply, it can cause an instant Blue screen and prevent us from loading into the OS, forcing us to use factory reset in the bios. We really don’t want that, because that sets GPU voltage back to 100%(and max allowable voltage to 120%) forcing us to uninstall our 1080 Ti cards and reinstall a Radeon to set a max GPU voltage of 150% また. If we watch for sizable skips in idle wattage(as we slightly increase VRam MHz and hit apply) and run a short test immediately after those skips(looking for test stability and not large jumps in load temp) we should be fine. After you figure out the max VRam clock based on acceptable idle wattage and/or a load temp that is below max(and stable ie no blue screen) this is our max VRam clock. You can set that back to default if you like(or close like 1375 または 1400).

You can start testing using 3D Mark using either max GPU clock, max VRam clock, or an under max mix of both(if within idle wattage limit and load temp limit). What I find though, is that increases to GPU Clock and VRam clock provide similar gains individually. Perhaps GPU clock a bit more in general. I think GPU test 1 likes higher GPU clocks better and GPU test 2 likes higher VRam clocks better but both test happily take both. Thing is, even if you max the slider, max GPU clock is only about 50% more than stock while VRam set clear to the right is over twice as fast as stock. つまり、, potentially, you can get better results in 3D Mark maxing out VRam(or fairly close to it) compared to maxed out GPU clock(or some watered down mix of the two). VRam also seems to take less wattage and generate less heat as you increase clock speed compared to the GPU. So basically go about as high as you can go with VRam(maybe back off 25MHz to 50MHz from max) then slightly overclock the GPU with headroom you have left(言う 1600 on the GPU).

When you run 3D Mark, hopefully you score at least 20K(以上. I’ve gotten over 22K before).

If you don’t quite reach it(or you were really unlucky with the silicon lottery and didn’t even get close to 20K) you can reload the save you made from before buying your water cooling parts including GPUs and try again. I don’t have exact numbers as I haven’t binned hundreds or thousands of these GPUs, but in my limited experience I succeeded 5 のうち 6 回. A couple times I went over 1050 watts, but thankfully those were times I used the SilverStone ST1100-Ti.

Closing Thoughts and Conclusion

When building a PC for the Blow ’em away achievement, I had several other goals besides that.

Get your feet wet(custom water cool your office PC)

Treat yourself:GPU(install a 1080 Ti in your office PC)

Meet or exceed all spec requirements(Recommended/4K) for everything in the Will it Run? app.

This PC uses 5 radiators, so it works for the Going loopy achievement(may need CPU block).

I ended up spending a fair bit more($6000 on new parts including almost $1100 on ram) but was aided in the fact I had an ARCTIC Alpine 12 Passive and EKWB CPU Block Acetal(both used) already in my inventory. I didn’t think to check storage devices, but in real life I would be reluctant to include a used storage device in an otherwise new build(refurbs with warranty are okay, けれど). The CPU block is $300 新しい, and since the system scores over 10k 3D marks it shows as full price(along with an extra $100 or so just for the fact the system can boot to OS). That’s why the total in the video is around $6400(in case anyone was wondering). I tested the $5000 parts list in Free Build mode to make sure it could hit 20K 3D Marks or more(and it does). Didn’t test with the ASRock Z390 Pro 4 but I have not reason to believe it wouldn’t work just fine. Some Colorful mobos in particular probably will not since they seem to lack case fan headers, thus lacking the ability to connect the fan controller on the Obsidian 1000D which means you also can’t power the radiators in your custom loop.

This is the full list of parts used to make an office PC for the video if anyone is interested:

• i9 9900K $730
• EKWB CPU Block Acetal(一種の “無料” but I did buy it used on PC Bay a while back).
• ASRock Z390 Extreme 4 $180
• 4x G.SKILL Trident Z Black 16GB 4000 $1080
• GIGABYTE SSD 1TB $90
• Seagate 3TB HDD $90
• SilverStone ST 1100-Ti $280
• CORSAIR Obsidian Series 1000D $500
• 2x EKWB 240mm rad $460
• 2x EKWB 140mm rad $300
• 1x EKWB 120mm rad $130
• 1x EKWB 140 Plexi Pump $250
• 2x NVIDIA GTX 1080 Ti EKWB Plexi $1910

合計 $6000 not including CPU cooler or shipping

I could have saved $40 on the mobo and gotten the 4TB HDD instead, but I don’t like that it’s slower than the rest of the Seagate drives despite the fact I’m not actually using it for anything. I’ve seen customers ask for an upgrade to 4TB of storage(SSD + HDD included) so I figured why not. 技術的には, getting the 4TB HDD would have better value than the mobo I got but I didn’t consider that until after completing the build and I don’t want to change it now.

I am open to suggestions on how I might improve this guide. I considered adding pictures detailing radiator placement(or a video with that plus my order of hooking up pipes to make a proper loop, but I understand component order doesn’t matter in game and there is at least one other guide on Steam about how to set up a custom loop so maybe leave that stuff out, idk).

ともかく, thanks for reading my guide. I hope you learned something useful and managed to get the Blow ’em away achievement way sooner than waiting for 2080Ti graphics cards to unlock.

Thanks again, and happy PC building (don’t forget the thermal paste).